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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.